It’s a popular saying in Rio that, in an unusual twist of events, the poor look down on the rich and the rich look up at the poor.
On the hilltops that overlook the world-famous sprawling beaches and affluent neighbourhoods of Ipanema and Copacabana, tens of thousands of cariocas – native inhabitants to Rio de Janeiro – make their homes out of whatever materials they can lay their hands on in the city slums known as favelas.
Street vendors selling fresh fruit. © Espocc Maré
These unplanned favelas were out of bounds for decades. They were simply too dangerous for outsiders – Brazilians included – to venture into.
Yet, despite the less than favourable notoriety that has historically preceded these communities, Rio’s favelas are as much a part of the city’s culture as Christ the Redeemer, the Maracanã or Carnaval (Carnival).
In fact, many of Rio’s greatest Samba schools have their roots in the favelas and Carnaval just wouldn’t be the same without their joyful cultural influence.
For those who want to know what makes this city kick – or better said, dance – a visit to a favela is both enlightening and inspiring.
First, a little background…
A man wearing a t-shirt reading ‘peace’ sits under Brazil’s motto – ‘order and progress’. © Zanini H.
Rio’s slums, along with many others spread across the country, were born out of the housing crisis of the 19th century and aggravated by a handful of subsequent political crises.
From the onset, this ever-increasing illegal occupation was perceived as little more than an eyesore that needed to be removed.
Thanks to a gradual but positive attitude adjustment that started in the mid-90s, efforts to reintegrate the favelas into the wider city are finally paying off.
This process – stonewalled by the persistent violence and criminality that dominated these areas – gained some much-needed momentum when Brazil won the rights to stage two massive international events.
It doesn’t matter where you are in Brazil, football’s always on the mind… and pretty often on TV too. © cabralgabriel
With the World Cup and the Olympics in the pipeline, the government found the extra motivation it needed to address some of the more urgent problems in the favelas.
The greatest impact has come from the introduction of UPPs (Pacification Police Units), whose steady regaining of territorial control has made a few dozen favelas infinitely safer, to the benefit of both those who wish to visit and the native inhabitants themselves.
And the views are unbeatable.
The view from Tijuca National Park. © Leandro’s World Tour
Going there
Whether you plan a day trip or decide you want the full experience of staying in a genuine favela home with a local family, this is your chance to get in touch with an integral part of Rio’s landscape and urban make-up.
There are a wide range of tours on offer but be sure to pick one with a local guide. Not only will it be more authentic, your contribution will be going into the right hands.
An electric cable jungle.© Cellula – juntos somos imensidão.
You’ll walk through narrow alleys that wind around chaotic constructions and hectic courtyards, past complicated tangles of electric cables and street markets selling local arts and crafts.
And coming into contact with the history and everyday inner workings of a favela through a resident’s eyes will have you challenging your own preconceptions about these cheerful, community-minded neighbourhoods.
Staying with a family takes you one step further. Besides saving a little money by avoiding the pricey city centre, you get insider knowledge, support and honest, unaffected warmth.
You might be giving up a few hotel comforts for more humble accommodation, but the latter comes with the kind of intimacy, generosity and heartfelt enthusiasm you just can’t put a price on.
Favela street art. © simenon
The smaller and safest favelas are in Zona Sul – Rio’s southern area – just minutes away from the beaches. Remember to pick one of the neighbourhoods that has been pacified and, as you would on any trip abroad, take care not to ruffle any feathers.
If you stay alert, don’t go off exploring on your own – particularly at night – and watch where you point your camera, you’ll be perfectly safe to enjoy the busy hills of Rio.
Whichever one you choose to visit, you’ll find good food, plenty of music and a cheerful welcome.
Each favela has its own personality so we’ve picked the top four you should visit to get a taste of favela life.
Which favela to visit
Roçinha
A view of the contrast between Roçinha and the affluent Leblon neighbourhood.
Roçinha is Rio’s biggest favela, as well as the largest in Latin America. With an estimated population of 150,000, it has a better developed infra-structure compared to most other favelas.
Worth checking out are the sustainable tourism projects that show you around the local schools and institutions working hard to improve the lives and self-esteem of the members of the community.
The view also offers a striking contrast between the massive slum and the luxury real estate sitting on the coastline below.
Santa Marta
The king of pop immortalised in Santa Marta. © alxfns
Santa Marta is, in turn, the smallest. Because of its size it was the first to receive UPP protection and is considered the safest.
It is also famous for a few other reasons. For one, it is home to a shiny golden Michael Jackson statue, a tribute to when the King of Pop himself shot the music video for “They don’t care about us” here in 1996 – a fact residents are, naturally, very proud of.
Haas & Hahn’s favela painting project in Praça Cantão.
And Praça Cantão, the square at the entrance to Santa Marta, became a city icon when Dutch duo Haas & Hahn painted the houses in bright bold colours as part of an ongoing community artwork project.
You can catch a free cable car ride to the top and, once again, the view is both heart breaking – brandishing the nation’s social inequality – and absolutely stunning.
Oh, and there’s downhill biking and you can play paintball overlooking Sugarloaf Mountain.
Vidigal
The Vidigal favela sitting on the Morro Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers hill). © jikatu
Foreigner-friendly Vidigal is one of the more gentrified favelas and a popular playground for the more privileged cariocas – it even has a sushi bar.
It also has a reputation for attracting the artist-types and is often compared to Rio’s immensely popular bohemian quarter – Santa Teresa.
Hike up the walking trails for an overwhelming 180 degree view of the Atlantic.
Tavares Bastos
A favela Baile Funk party. © Espocc Maré
Tavares Bastos, another favourite for shooting music videos and movies alike, is especially known for its soulful nightlife.
From authentic Brazilian Baile Funk to the requisite Samba, Tavares Basto is all about the tunes.
Oddly enough, much of this musical reputation is owed to one visionary Englishman, former BBC journalist Bob Nadkarni, who moved here in the 80s and spent the next 20 years building what is now a much-loved 9-story guesthouse with an incredible rooftop bar.
The Maze – named for its labyrinth-like architecture – holds bimonthly jazz parties on the roof that attract hundreds of fans from all over the city and is definitely worth a visit.
Now that you’re all stocked up on favela facts, all that’s left is to book your ticket to Rio!
