The Languedoc region is home to some of the oldest and most culturally rich cities in Southern France, all within easy reach of each other, making for a perfect road trip destination without having to drive for hours between destinations to sample the diversity of the region.
You’re likely to start and end such a trip in Montpellier. From there, head south along the Mediterranean coast to Sète, then drive the isthmus separating the sea from the Étang de Thau to reach Agde before turning inland to visit Béziers and Pézanas and, finally, returning to Montpellier. Et voilà – that’s five cities in one trip. Bon voyage!
Sète
Séte is known locally as the Venice of the South and it’s not hard to see why
With its multiple canals and location separated from the mainland by a swamp earning it the moniker of Venice of Languedoc, Sète is a strikingly beautiful place. Built on and around a natural hill rising out of the water, it has several unique traditions that you won’t see represented elsewhere in Languedoc.
With a rich cultural programme, Sète offers a lot to see for such a small town. Spend some time visiting the various museums, including the Sea Museum which explains the town’s history as a port, the Regional Center of Contemporary Arts which puts on temporary exhibitions surrounding current events as well as works by French and international artists, and the quirky Museum of the Modest Arts, which proposes to give visitors a new perspective on everyday objects.
Visit in mid-August for the St Louis Day Festival to witness the longtime tradition of water jousting
Since 1666, Sète, along with several other coastal towns in Languedoc has upheld its tradition of water jousting. If you come in mid-August you will not be able to avoid the six-day St Louis Day Festival which celebrates the town’s patron saint.
This is an excellent chance to see the weird and wonderful watersport where two boats with a raised ladder at each end, upon which sit four jousters, move towards each other as the jousters try to push each other off into the water. It’s definitely something that has to be seen live to be truly experienced!
Do it like the locals: sample some freshly caught seafood from the local market
For the avid shopper, a visit to the central market, otherwise known as Les Halles de Sète, shouldn’t be missed. Here you will find not only locally grown produce, freshly caught seafood and a myriad of other culinary delights, but also fashion and jewellery boutiques and independent artists selling their work.
The Hotel de Paris in Sète is a great option for a centrally located place to stay with a few luxuries such as a jacuzzi, sauna, gym and massage service. From here, it’s only a 20-minute walk to the train station and everything else you’ll want to see in Sète is within easy walking distance. Averaging around €92 [£80] a night, depending on the time of year as well as the type of room, it’s a good deal for such a central location.
Agde
Off the coast of Agde, you’ll find the 16th-century Brescou Fort atop a volcanic island
Known as the Black Pearl of the Mediterranean for its many buildings made of the local volcanic stone, Agde is one of the oldest towns in France and also the Mediterranean port of the Canal du Midi, making for a fascinating place to visit.
Two kilometres off the coast of Agde is the 16th-century Brescou Fort atop a volcanic island, which you can visit by boat. This striking construction juxtaposed with a modern lighthouse at the centre of the island has a complicated and intriguing history and also offers great views back to the mainland.
Agde Cathedral is made of the signature black basalt of Agde
Overlooking the town’s river is the imposing Agde Cathedral, made of the signature black basalt of Agde. It is notable for having been constructed in the 12th century to act as both a place of worship and a fortress with three meter thick walls. See if you can spot the slight misalignment of the building when you go inside: at first it seems perfectly symmetrical, but it’s not!
With beautiful views over the cape, the Hotel Le Bellevue Cap D’Agde is ideally situated in the town’s entertainment district with easy access to a wide variety of restaurants, cafes and nightlife options. It has a sauna and steam bath for guests to use and with rooms from €58 [£50] a night, it’s really a great affordable option.
Béziers
The Fonserannes Locks are a popular attraction in the area
One of the oldest towns in France and among some of the most ancient in all Europe, Béziers has a long and fascinating history of occupation by the Romans and Moors, among others. Nowadays, it has a lot to offer to visitors.
Right on the famous Canal du Midi, the newly renovated Fonserannes Locks are worthwhile tourist attraction to see while in Béziers, as they showcase a unique and impressive piece of engineering: a staircase of eight locks that allow boats travelling along it to be raised over 20 meters in just 300 meters. The traditional stables and lockkeeper’s house are still right by the lock and add to the charm of the whole experience.
As the region of Languedoc is famous for its wine, it’s not surprising that you’ll find several vineyards nearby Béziers. You can tour many of these including Domaine de la Colombette which offers excellent Merlot and Pinot Noir wines, Mas La Chevalière known for its Chardonnay, Domaine de Bachellery for its Grenache and Domaine de la Barthe which offers oyster pairings with the wines.
Languedoc vineyards around Beziers with the Herault mountains in the background
Of course, once you’ve toured all those vineyards, coming back into town to enjoy some of that wine with a meal in one of the many wine bars is a must. Try Le Chameau Ivre for its informal setting, friendly staff and delicious fish, scallop and other seafood dishes, for which suggestions of accompanying wines are readily and happily given.
For the ideal place to stay in Béziers, the Mercure Béziers offers the perfect central location with all of the most noteworthy sights within walking distance with standard rooms averaging around €81 [£70] a night. Additionally, they offer honeymoon suites if you’re looking for something a little more luxurious.
Pézenas
At the Saturday market in Pézenas, you’ll find vendors from all around Languedoc out to sell their local produce.
The tiny and well-preserved town of Pézenas is the birthplace of French playwright and actor Molière, and has developed a strong tradition of theatre as a claim to this, despite the fact that he may have only lived here for a few years. Nonetheless, it demonstrates the town’s heritage and a trip to Le Théâtre de Pézenas is a fun experience, even if you don’t speak French as many productions are big on slapstick and other visual jokes.
If you’re passing through Pézenas at the weekend, it’s worth timing your visit to coincide with the Saturday market. The whole town is taken over by this lively market and you’ll find vendors from all around Languedoc out to sell their local produce.
You’ll find local works of art all around Pézenas © tpvh
The town also has a long tradition of craftsmanship and has for much of its history encouraged working artists. The result is that it’s a great place to see skilled artists working with wood, metal, clay and stone to create some unique handicrafts. Nowadays, there are more than fifty artists working in Pézanas all year round.
With a pool and its own restaurant, the Hotel Le Saint Germain is an excellent option for a place to stay in Pézanas for an intimate setting and some peace and quiet while still being close enough to the town that everything is within walking distance. Rooms cost around €69 [£60] a night.
Montpellier
The Fabre Museum is worth a visit when you reach Montpellier
For a taste of the big city life in Languedoc, head to Montpellier. With a large student population, there is always something interesting going on in the city, from cool bars and live music to world-class art and colourful markets. It’s also the perfect city to get around by bike with an excellent system of short-term bike rentals, the Velomagg.
It’s also a city full of art and has an impressive range of galleries worth visiting. Try the Musée Fabre for mostly 15th to 18th-century art, the Pavillon Populaire for photography or the Panacée for contemporary art.
Come evening, head to Place Saint Roche or Place de la Chapelle Neuve to experience some of what Montpellier has to offer in terms of nightlife, ranging from sophisticated wine bars such as Baron Rouge to live music venues such as Rockstore.
Canoe your way out of the city in Montpellier © OT Montpellier
If you feel like getting out of the city and into nature for a while, have a go at canoeing along the Lez river, just 15 minutes from the centre of town. Several companies offer canoes for rent as well as transport to and from town, and it will take you through some beautifully calm countryside.
For a touch of rococo splendour, the hotel Baudon de Mauny offers large rooms with some modern luxuries such as iPod docks and flat-screen TV in a convenient location in the historical centre of Montpellier, close to many of the city’s attractions. Rooms can be had for around €115 [£100] a night, which is excellent value for this standard of hotel.
