Montmartre is a misunderstood gem. Yes, it has its hoards of visitors climbing the stairs to spot the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, chowing down on cliche “French” food and sneaking a peek at the great Parisian skyline views, but what lingers down those cute cobble-stoned alleyways? Here are our suggestions of how you can extend your stay in this vibrant district-on-the-hill.
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1. Rue de L’Olive
Side-street relaxing in the 18th arrondissement.
Hidden among railways and busy roads in the north of Paris, Rue de l’Olive is a tiny local shopping street with a bountiful indoor market. Once the local cattle market, the hall frames an utterly tempting selection of cheeses, charcuterie, fruit and vegetables. If you get peckish from eyeballing all the fresh produce, sit down to homemade Caribbean, Thai or Italian specialties at one of the many local eateries. Otherwise, enjoy a glass of red at En Vrac, the organic wine bar on the corner, or simply take a coffee break at one of the local brasseries. Whatever your choice, a sunny terrace and view of the animated street await.
Where: Rue de l’Olive, 18th arr.
Tel: n/a
Nearest station: Marx Dormoy
2. Le Bal Café
Tasty treats at Le Bal, a great pit-stop and Montmartre café.
As both a café and art space, the idea behind Le Bal is to encourage reflection upon none other than reality itself. Through various visual documentation forms, such as photo, video and film, the very act of representation is explored through regular exhibitions and events. The address was home to a ballroom-turned-brothel back during the iconic roaring 20s – hence the name. Le Bal Café is also very kid-friendly, and there’s a playground just next door. With Scandinavian-inspired interior design and an Anglo-French kitchen, the environment is warm, the menu is enticing and the coffee is good. And don’t forget to stop by their bookshop too.
Where: 6, Impasse de la Défense, 18th arr.
Tel: +33 1 44 70 75 51
Nearest station: Place de Clichy, La Fourche
3. Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin Luther King
Take a break in the Parc Clichy-Batignolles.
Taking in so many new impressions, travelling can be pretty exhausting … sometimes it’s rewarding to do nothing in particular. An easy escapade while still in the middle of Paris, and an excellent alternative to the often too crowded Parc des Buttes Chaumont, is the large and modern Martin Luther King Park. It’s a great spot for a picnic or simply taking a nap on the grass. A landscaped network of paths winds through little creeks and lakes dotted with bursts of water lilies, bulrushes and reeds. There’s also a playground for smaller kids and a wooden climbing frame, a skate ramp and a football field to entertain the more restless.
Where: 147 rue Cardinet, 17th arr.
Tel: +33 1 44 69 17 17
Nearest station: Brochant
4. Café Lomi
Looking for Montmartre’s best cup of coffee? Try Café Lomi.
A convenient stop after your exploration of Montmartre and Sacre-Cœur, this specialty coffee joint will have you sighing with happy relief after your first sip of adeptly-prepared coffee. With its own specialised roastery, much pride is taken in exploring and explaining the nuances of the precious bean. And with a distinctly international feel to it, English is spoken on both sides of the bar – so don’t hesitate to ask for advice if you want to take home coffee beans or gear. There’s also a small selection of homemade pastries and seasonal savoury lunch dishes to enjoy by the large window, or outside with a view to the colourful graffiti wall across the street.
Where: 3, rue Marcadet, 18th arr.
Tel: +33 9 80 39 56 24
Nearest station: Marcadet-Poissonniers
5. Passage Jouffroy
Transport yourself back to a more classy era with a wander through Passage Jouffroy.
The passage Jouffroy is one of the oldest roofed arcades in Paris, but for some reason is not very well known. It is so enjoyable to pass through it on a rainy day, listening to the water drumming on the glass roof, whilst strolling around the many great little shops undisturbed. Pain d’Epices has a plethora of dollhouses, while M&G Segas only stocks antique walking sticks, or you can go to number 63 for your silverware needs. The passage continues on the other side of rue de la Grange Batelière with a change of name to Passage Verdeau, and it is here that you can find copper print, embroidery, old children’s books and Italian delicacies on sale.
Where: Passage Jouffroy, 9th arr.
Tel: +33 1 48 24 03 83
Nearest station: Grand Boulevard
6. La Recyclerie
No Montmartre guide would be complete without mention of this quirky, eco-friendly haunt!
Proudly eco-conscious and carrying it with style, La Recyclerie is worth the journey over – even if it is located on the limit of the average tourist’s horizon. Since the name of the game is eco-responsible conduct, recycling goes into pretty much every activity here – from flea markets to DIY workshops to repurposing the leftovers from the cantina. Set in the ancient Gare Ornano railway station, even the space along the tracks has been converted into an urban garden! Don’t mind the goats and hens that call it home. Check out the events calendar for age- or interest-specific activities, or simply show up for lunch and see for yourself.
Where: 83, Boulevard Ornano, 18th arr.
Tel: +33 1 42 57 58 49
Nearest station: Porte de Clignancourt
7. Musée de la Vie Romantique
Get yourself a treat from this fun little cafe alongside the Musée de la vie Romantique.
Objectively the Musée de la Vie Romantique can’t compete with the great Parisian art museums of course. It is just an old Italian villa complete with hollyhocks hidden at the end of a sunken road. But it is beautiful to take a walk in the lush green garden, circle around the small living rooms and take some time to become deeply absorbed in a book sitting in a Victorian style sofa. The museum is the perfect size to make it manageable. The house is dedicated to the romantic era of around 1820-1850 and the ambience is recreated in the patterned wallpaper made of leather, the draped curtains and original furniture. The garden is full of old trees and you can be served tea from a little green painted greenhouse. Truly delightful.
Where: 16, Rue Chaptal, 9th arr.
Tel: +33 1 55 31 95 67
Nearest station: Blanche
8. À la Volée
Not quite Montmartre, but the sweets treats at À-la-Volée are worth venturing to the 17th arr.
For many of its guests, Paris is all about sensory experiences, not least the sense of taste. This quaint little tea salon and pastry wonderland is the perfect place to invite a beloved one with a sweet tooth. The décor and overall presentation is reminiscent of a great-grandmother’s party – all charming little teacups, floral-printed plates and robust teapots assembled together with a wonderful attention to detail. Cakes, cookies, pies, brownies, cheesecakes … the list and variations are seemingly endless, much like the copious sweet bites on display. Noticeably passionate about her products and concept, the extremely welcoming and talented owner is known to strike up a conversation over the vintage counter.
Where: 21 rue des Dames, 17th arr.
Tel: +33 1 42 93 76 02
Nearest station: Place de Clichy
